Best of Pittsburgh (2017)

Another year down, another amazing series of meals in this lovely city of Pittsburgh. We continue to thrive as a community and move forward in both economic and societal successes. Let’s all support each other and make sure to especially support those small, neighborhood restaurants that you really enjoy! I was very disappointed to see both El Milagro and Casellulla go out of business this year, but as to what the entire story is, I cannot say. I can only hope through supportive patronage and spreading the word to our friends and family, we won’t lose any of those on this list. Also, please note while I may have visited these places many more times throughout the year, the dates given were when these pictures were taken and these experiences were had. All that being said, may I present the 15 most enjoyable bites I had this year within the City of Pittsburgh.

 

15. The Cafe Carnegie / 5-14-17 / Oakland

It’s very rare that someone might highlight the food at a museum as being the reason to make a visit, but the Cafe at the Carnegie Museum of Art has definitely made itself a destination restaurant for me. Chef Sonja Finn has established a gorgeous dining room, a technically impressive menu, and a truly wonderful dining experience overall. Great service throughout (we visited on Mother’s Day for brunch) seemed to be part and parcel with how the cafe operates. The soft boiled egg dish was served with prosciutto and delicious bitter greens, open-faced over a piece of toast, providing a nice and rich dish. The egg in the hole sandwich had fresh toasted wheat bread with that wonderful fried egg and spicy meats throughout. The lightly dressed salad was a welcoming accompaniment of vinegar to cut through the richness of the yolk and meats. The dining room, the ever-changing menu, and the wonderful service while even completely full ensures I’ll be returning for many a refined brunch at the art museum.

 

14. Kaya / 7-13-17 / Strip District

14-kaya-fried-chicken.jpg

File this under the “things that may only have been a secret to me” but Kaya has ridiculously delicious fried chicken. Every Thursday night they offer up a half of a chicken, tortillas, and a seasonal assortment of sides/sauces. I’m always hankering for some delicious fried chicken (I’d love to know some of your favorites) so I decided to head out to check it out with my Dad back in July. I was very impressed to say the least. The buttermilk marinade is evident front and center with that impossibly juicy chicken underneath the crags and mountains of beautifully seasoned and crunchy coating. I went with the Nashville hot preparation, which kicked the spice up quite a bit, but it was balanced with precision by the cucumber ranch dipping sauce, fresh vinegar coleslaw, and huge slices of salted watermelon. Pulling the meat off of the thigh and loading that up into the tortilla with some of the ranch and a sprinkling of coleslaw was like some Dr. Frankenstein Southern taco abomination, but it tasted outstanding all the same. Take the time and join the club one of these upcoming Thursdays or check out Kaya any other day of the week for some of the best Island cuisine in the Strip.

 

13. Ting’s Kitchen / 3-10-17 / North Hills

13 ting's kitchen spicy pork ribs

One doesn’t normally equate “McIntyre Square Strip Mall” with “delicious and authentic Szechuan cuisine” but that’s exactly what Ting’s Kitchen achieves. Previously known as China Star (not that China Star), but with a new management and the same kitchen staff. This authentic Chinese restaurant is a wonderful oasis in a shopping center not known for its destination cuisine. I’ve had their variations on double-cooked pork belly with garlic greens, as well as their Chongqing chicken and shell-on wok-fried salt and pepper shrimp and all have been delicious. Pictured here are the spicy pork ribs and leeks. The bone is trimmed and cut, so you have to remove the meat from the bone and discard the bone separately, but the meat is cooked long enough to completely fall right off the bone. These are not ribs in the traditional American sense, but more of a nugget of pork chop surrounding a small piece of bone for bite-sized portions. The chili broth permeates the celery, scallions, and mushrooms nicely, so as to create a wonderful stewed flavor throughout. They also do some of the best red chili oil dumplings I’ve had. While you may have only been aware of Taj Mahal for incredible authentic cuisine off of McKnight Road, check out Ting’s Kitchen if you’re out that way (and Chengdu Gourmet or How Lee or Sichuan Gourmet if you’re near Squirrel Hill).

 

12. Huszar / 9-27-17 / North Side

12 Huszar steak

Even though we only just visited back in September, I’m already planning on ordering those potato pancakes when we return to Huszar. I had such an enjoyable meal meeting the staff and learning the history of this bar and how it became a restaurant. While the wonderful stories would have been enough to make this an unforgettable meal, the food really knocked it out of the park. Perfect food for the kind of weather we’ve been having, Hungarian cuisine helps keep you warm both inside and out. The aforementioned potato pancakes were some of the best I’ve ever had (not to be confused with the outstanding hash-brown-adjacent latkes that my mother cooks up for Hanukkah) these are light and fluffy and wonderfully toasted and crispy. The paprikash was amazing, the eye of round steak with a mountain of onions that I ordered was wonderful, the desserts were out of this world, with service and a guide through it all that was second-to-none. Few neighborhood restaurants make you feel as welcome or as at home as Huszar and I can’t wait until you feel like part of the family, as well.

11. Butterwood Bake Consortium / 8-26-17 / Lawrenceville

11 Butterwood bake consortium brownie

A wonderful gem in the ever-expanding Lawrenceville, located just a couple of doors down from my favorite vegan restaurant in the city (B52), this Bakery has really knocked it out of the park. With only a few offerings every day (but a near-consistent supply of brownies), your mileage may vary with your visit but we’ve sampled many a vegan and environmentally-consciously-sourced baked good and they all have been excellent. Their brownies, heated up, are like hot fudge at the center with a crunchy and crispy exterior, rich and chocolatey and as dense as a black hole. Luckily, their coffee is outstanding as well and works well to bring you back down to Earth before drifting too far into the core of chocolate nirvana. Lighter fare is usually available and desserts with rose water or honeysuckle or a light misting of lavender could be available and should be sampled. The best part of Butterwood is that they’re open until 11pm Monday through Saturday and 9pm on Sundays to ensure whenever you want that perfect slice of cake, you won’t have to sacrifice quality for convenience.

10. Pallantia / 5-13-17 / Shadyside

10 pallantia meat fiesta

There are a couple of notable Spanish restaurants around the city (the legendary Mallorca, last year’s list-maker Morcilla ) and I had a truly delicious meal dining at one I hadn’t previously visited back in May. They have quite a sizeable menu and I was especially impressed at their wide breadth of protein offerings (from all sorts of seafood, chicken, pork, beef, chorizo, etc). We ordered what we lovingly referred to as the “meat fiesta”, which came with chorizo, chicken, pork, and steak, with potatoes and saffron. It was a behemoth. It’s hard to tell from the picture, but this is an enormous paella pan, used to serve up a true meat party from all across the barnyard. The homemade chorizo was a standout for me, densely ground, black on the outside and a deep dark red within, with strong flavors of cumin, garlic, ancho chili, and paprika. I’m a sucker for a good sampler platter and this was easily one of the best that I was able to share and enjoy with friends this year.

 

9. Tan Lac Vien / 2-5-17 / Squirrel Hill

9 tan lac vien chicken rice noodle thing

Easily my favorite Vietnamese in the city right now is in Squirrel Hill at Tan Lac Vien. They have such a nice amount of options from the broken rice bowls to pho to the noodle bowls (bun vermicelli) to these, the vermicelli lettuce wraps (banh hoi). Not pictured are the hard shiny discs of dried vermicelli (think the translucent wrapper around a fresh summer roll). You slowly rotate those discs in the hot water they provide until it becomes soft and pliable, almost like a thick sheet of gelatin. Then, it’s up to you to stuff it with whatever protein you’ve ordered (in this case the lemongrass marinated pork), as well as pickled vegetables, fresh cilantro or basil, and any amount of vinegar fish sauce, or plum sauce, or sriracha. You roll it all up into your own kind of fresh roll and chow down. The pork is wonderfully charred and crunchy from the sweet glaze and crushed peanuts, and leaves a delicious smokey sauce on the bed of tightly wound rice noodles that it lays on. I’ve been consistently impressed with Tan Lac Vien and I look forward to more authentic cuisines taking the forefront as Sichuan cooking has in recent months.

 

8. Scratch / 5-20-17 / Troy Hill

I first discovered Scratch for myself back in 2016, and I have to admit it’s only gotten better. This year we were able to sample their offerings for brunch with some friends and it was an outstanding meal from start to finish. Their chicken and biscuits were incredible, with the hot and spicy breading breaking down into the english muffin and covered with a wonderful relish dressing, like a deconstructed fried chicken sandwich. The star was truly the pork belly and eggs with perfectly crispy and fatty thick cut pork belly under a sunny-side-up egg so when the yolk was burst, it allowed the entire dish to bathe in its rich sauce. A beautiful space when the walls can be opened and the entire restaurant becomes like eating outside, with excellent food and service to match. I look forward to returning to Troy Hill soon. I’ve also been buzzed about Pear and the Pickle, just a couple of streets away, so it looks like a trip is soon in order.

 

7. Streets on Carson / 2-16-17 / Southside

7 streets on carson philly sammy

When I was in Philadelphia last year, I had the pleasure to stop by the Reading Terminal Market and enjoy the epic DiNic’s Roast Pork Sandwich. A big crusty italian roll sliced horizonally and layered with huge slices of fresh roast pork, topped with shaved sharp provolone, and topped with garlicky broccoli rabe. It’s one of the most magnificent sandwiches I’ve ever had in my life and you owe it to yourself to try one if you’re ever in the Reading Terminal Market and hungry for a pork sandwich. The Roast Pork Broccoli Rabe at Streets on Carson is not that sandwich. It’s a wonderful and beautifully executed tribute. It takes the large slices of pork and replaces it with slow cooked, wonderfully seasoned roast pulled pork, takes the rabe and adds far more stalk and crunch, takes the chunks of sharp provolone and brings it down far more mild into deli slices, and brings the hoagie bun down to more manageable and softer territory. Don’t get me wrong, it’s an outstanding sandwich on its own and it does a wonderful homage to its predecessor. Where they win at Streets is with their house french fries. My goodness these fries. Perfectly cooked, slathered in garlic and herbs and cheese, these fries threaten to outshine some of the sandwiches. Easily my favorite thing at Streets are the Confit Chicken Wings. Cooked to perfect consistency and temperature, the meat is held onto the bone with only the most tenuous of ties, threatening to leap off and into your mouth at a moment’s notice. They’re seasoned with a wonderful combination of garlic and jalapeno and finished with lemon for a beautiful citrus acidic bite to help elevate the roasty toasted garlic and onion flavors. It’s a beautiful preparation and I only wish more places offered confit wings. Streets on Carson does its part to elevate Southside cuisine (along with Carmella’s, Stagioni, and a few others) and I want to recognize that achievement.

 

6. Teppanyaki Kyoto / 1-21-17 / Highland Park

Making its way back onto the list from 2016, I had to recognize Teppanyaki Kyoto once again. Subsequent visits have allowed me to enjoy nearly the entire menu and there really isn’t a bad dish in the bunch. The takoyaki are easily one of my favorite dishes in the entire city and no one else does them as well as Teppanyaki Kyoto does. Wonderfully light batter, studded with sweet and slightly chewy octopus, deep fried and topped with kewpie mayo, green onion, and the star of the dish (as far as I’m concerned) the dried bonito shavings. Beyond the snacks, their whole grilled teriyaki eel is all of the best parts of Unagi without the rice getting in the way. Incredibly sweet and smooth fish, wonderful oceanic saltiness and just the ever so slight bitterness of the skin and deep caramel of the sauce, it’s a wonderful seafood experience. Every course, all of the pacing, all of the plates and preparations and organization is executed wonderfully. Time and again, Teppanyaki Kyoto never fails to impress with their wide array of offerings and continual success plate after plate. I could eat those takoyaki every single day and never get tired of them.

5. DiAnoia’s Eatery / 9-17-17 / Strip District

5 Dianoia's benedict

We dined with them for the first time last year for New Year’s Eve and have visited multiple times both just as a couple and with friends. Consistently, time and again they have provided outstanding food, exceptional drinks, and exemplary service. For dinner, their cacio e pepe was second to none, perfect housemade noodles, beautifully balanced seasoning, gorgeous and velvety creamy cheese sauce. We’ve had so many of their breakfast offerings, but my favorite is the Prosciutto Eggs Benedict pictured above. The true definition of eggs benedict, with hollandaise and a poached egg, but a wonderful twist of creamed spinach and prosciutto. They don’t go for fancy or challenging food. It’s all delicious, it’s all straightforward and approachable and above all, consumable. A friendly place with a wonderful open floor plan, beautiful fixtures, and a true homey cafe feel, I cannot recommend DiAnoia’s enough for a simple and elegant Italian meal.

4. The Vandal / 6-3-17 / Lawrenceville

My favorite inventive and adventurous meal this year was enjoyed with another lovely couple back in June at The Vandal. A comically small restaurant (I think there were 6 tables?), each course feels like it’s being personally prepared and delivered by the chef herself. Though the menu has changed multiple times over, there are still hints of the dishes we enjoyed. The smoked fish crepes was an outstanding explosion of salty, smoked whitefish with the salty roe, light and fluffy crepes, and crunch scallions. I still think about that smoked fish. The take on fish and chips, raw thin slices of red snapper, crispy translucent slices of radish, crunchy fried potatoes, a drizzling of citrus and olive oil. It was the perfect crudo and the mild beauty seemed a world away from the boldness of the smoked fish. The carpaccio was easily some of the best I’ve ever had, with pickled vegetables, bright and vibrant olive oil and sea salt. The most basic of additions to help isolate and elevate the natural and raw flavors of the protein. The Executive Chef, Csilla Thackray is one of the best in the city and I look forward to seeing what she comes up with next.

3. Gaucho Parilla Argentina / 4-27-17 / Strip District (Downtown)

I am an unapologetic carnivore and no place in the city makes me face that fact head on like Gaucho does. Not only do they butcher, prepare, and masterfully cook their meats over a wood-fire unlike anyone else, but they’ve created these dipping sauces that you can enjoy, ad infinitum with said meats. The chorizo (both hot and mild) is stunning in its simplicity: the perfect snap, smooth and rich ground sausage throughout, but with their garlic ajo or chimichurri, it’s another level. You’ll wish for a whole loaf of their toasted bread to go with the sauces, blistered peppers and onions that come with the meats.. Their chicken is next level, with that incredible spice rub of  garlic, scallions, lemon, lime, jalapenos, and even more incredible flavor  from the slow wood-fire barbecuing that they receive. The chicken is only slightly crispy on the outside, where the rub has started to char and burn into the skin perfectly, with that explosive smoked chicken meat within. It’s a salacious, carnivorous mess, but one which you’ll come back for time and time again.

 

2. Spork / 4-14, 8-26-17 / Garfield

Also returning for the second year in a row is Spork, the magical small-plates restaurant helmed by Christian Frangiadis. This year, they added Spork Pit right next door in the empty lot. It’s a small BBQ operation, but the best part is that some of the items made their way onto the regular menu inside at Spork. The gorgeous BBQ chicken wings were perfectly smoked, with that unbelievably crunchy lacquer on the outside and beautifully pink smoked meat within. I was so impressed with these chicken wings and I cannot wait to try more from Spork (and Spork Pit) next season. Even greater than the wings (can you imagine that?) is the smoked brisket weck. Their take on the beef on weck, with perfectly smoked beef brisket, cooked so low and slow that most of that connective tissue had broken down to barely hold the meat slices together, but still with enough chew to keep it as a cohesive sandwich, topped with pickled onion, Dijon mustard and horseradish, all on the perfect salt encrusted hard-roll. This was easily the best sandwich I had all year and I look forward to returning and enjoying it yet again with one of their delicious house-made cocktails.

1. Honest John’s / 9-30, 12-3, 12-16-17 / Homestead

What makes a good restaurant? I’d argue that it’s good service, good food, in an appropriate setting, all at an appropriate price point. I know that’s one of the most subjective sentences that could ever possibly be, but follow me here for a second. Honest John’s is located off of the madness that is the Waterfront on 8th avenue (across the street from where Smoke used to be and right down from Dorothy 6). So for me, it’s a neighborhood restaurant, check. Walking in, they’ve got a nice breathable space with a couple of side rooms with a few tables and a main dining room with a full bar and 4 four tops set up and spread out. For me, that’s a nice amount of room to spread out and not feel like the couple next to you is sitting right on top of you. Appropriate setting, check. The menu is only one page long (with a huge $8-$10 cocktail list on the back) with all items ranging from $5 for bread with oil/rosemary honey butter to $29 for the steak, so check and double check. The entire staff is wonderful, friendly, willing to have a conversation even if they’re swamped, and gracious throughout, so check. I could belabor the point, but I think Honest John’s has cracked the secret formula: make good food and don’t be shitty and you’ve got a winning restaurant. My favorite item that I’ve ordered for lunch so far has been the smoked blue cheese wedge with homemade smoked blue cheese dressing, enormous lardons of bacon and strips of acidic green apple to help cut through that incredible richness of the fatty pork and dressing. Just a note, I added some of their grilled chicken to the entree and it as perfectly filling and a very generous portion. I’ve had their fish specials twice and each time the fish was perfectly cooked, fresh-tasting and wonderfully balanced in seasoning. I’ve had filets pan seared with that excellent crunchy layer on the outside and that melty soft and beautiful flake of a fresh fish within. The pimento mac and cheese is another grandslam, an enormous portion of noodles with the perfect zing of ancho chili and all topped with toasted garlic bread crumbs. I’ve also enjoyed the black bean soup, which is a meal in and of itself, an enormous bowl of creamy pureed black beans, wonderfully seasoned with a light hand as to not make it too salty, but still bring it out of a drab bowl of beans, and a beautiful dollop of sour cream on top. All of the best parts of black bean dip, with a spoon. I’m consistently impressed by the quality of the offerings from the kitchen from Honest John’s and I hope to see them thrive for years and years to come.

 

So another year has come and gone and while my updates haven’t been as consistent, that doesn’t make the food scene in Pittsburgh any more thriving. I am so lucky to be a part of this growing community. I hope we can all embrace the changes and help support those local restaurants that we all love so much.

I’ve attempted to keep my records accurate and as I remember them, but please don’t hesitate to e-mail me at DavidTheGastronome@gmail.com in case you’d like to discuss any of my list with me, also be sure to follow my Instagram and Like my page on Facebook. I would not exist without you, so please let me know what I can do to make this blog a more enjoyable experience. Thank you so much!

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